Motion Control drivers and motors

[bruce_miranda]

Wiring a Motion Control Stepper to a Motion Control Driver to get smooth rotations.

Can someone please tell me how can I get a smooth running motor. What settings do I need and how will the wiring be for bipolar parallel.

I have a 40V 10A PSU and the Motors are wired as Bipolar Parallel to the Drivers.

Motors being used http://www.motioncontrolproducts.co....TH76-2808B.pdf

Drivers being used
http://www.motioncontrolproducts.com...0datasheet.pdf

Driver is currently set as 2 Microsteps.

They are wired as per the Motion Control wiring diagram.

Blue+Red to A+
Blue/White + Red/White to A-
Green+Black to B+
Green/White + Black/White to B-

But is this correct because someone else said that I have it wrong.

Currently the motor is running jerky like http://www.youtube.com/v/4gkLBOmZqJU

Do I need to change any of the jumper settings inside? Because at the moment its left as they arrived.

The DIP switches are set as
SW1 SW2 SW3 SW4 SW5 SW6 SW7 SW8 -> Off Off Off Off Off On On On

[bruce_miranda]

Aiming for Parallel and don't know what the wiring should be. So any help with be nice here.

Gary from Motion told me that the SW4 was meant only for dropping current down to half after a phase but I'm so lost now I'll try anything.

[Gary]

Wiring looks fine, and the current is set to 4.2 A so that should be ok also.
The problem that you are seeing is a typical noise or low signal problem, or possibly both.
These are the points you need to address:

1) Use Shielded cable for all signal cables
2) Shield the motor phase cables.
3) keep signal and power / phase cables apart, and if they need to cross, they should cross perpendicular.


Also check the signals from the pc, the voltage should be about 5V, it it is low the driver can miss pulses and you can get the stuttering you are seeing.

[Gary]

I just had an email from Bruce, and it apears that his clock pulse is about 3.3V, and he is using a laptop.
This is most definately the problems, and is actually quite common when a laptop is used.
The solution would be to use either another laptop with higher voltage outputs, or a desktop PC with a parallel port.

Bruce,
Try this and give us your results.

Thanks

Gary

Aiming for Parallel and don't know what the wiring should be. So any help with be nice here.

Gary from Motion told me that the SW4 was meant only for dropping current down to half after a phase but I'm so lost now I'll try anything.

[irving2008]

I just had an email from Bruce, and it apears that his clock pulse is about 3.3V, and he is using a laptop.
This is most definately the problems, and is actually quite common when a laptop is used.
The solution would be to use either another laptop with higher voltage outputs, or a desktop PC with a parallel port.

Bruce,
Try this and give us your results.

Thanks

Gary

What breakout board is he using? The MDS drivers are optisolated so dont really need a sophisticated BOB and are pretty immune to cross-over noise on the signal lines due to the low impedance 'on' drive. Unless he has a very long cable from PC to BOB or the BOB is a old design with TTL rather than CMOS logic I'd be suprised that the use of a laptop was an issue.

[Gary]

Mot sure about the Bob, but The measured voltage was 3.3V, which is on the border line of working for the optos.
I have found that most support calls that end with the signal voltages being too low were on laptops.

What breakout board is he using? The MDS drivers are optisolated so dont really need a sophisticated BOB and are pretty immune to cross-over noise on the signal lines due to the low impedance 'on' drive. Unless he has a very long cable from PC to BOB or the BOB is a old design with TTL rather than CMOS logic I'd be suprised that the use of a laptop was an issue.

[bruce_miranda]

Mot sure about the Bob, but The measured voltage was 3.3V, which is on the border line of working for the optos.
I have found that most support calls that end with the signal voltages being too low were on laptops.

Don't say that after I've just spent £33 on a BOB! Not to mention having already spent £10 for the previous BOB which won't be used.

I'll update this thread the moment I find something else worth reporting.

Anyone else here using a CNC Fusion kit? I've had alignment issues with the Z axis in particular. Is it right that the entire weight of the Z axis is taken by the collar supplied in your kit? Also why is there so little space made around the LoveJoys? The Orange sticker peeled out on a couple - just shows how close they are to the walls.

[Gary]

When we initially talked i presumed you were using our Bob, and this is a straight through bob with no components but two connectors.
What bob are you using?

Don't say that after I've just spent £33 on a BOB! Not to mention having already spent £10 for the previous BOB which won't be used.

I'll update this thread the moment I find something else worth reporting.

Anyone else here using a CNC Fusion kit? I've had alignment issues with the Z axis in particular. Is it right that the entire weight of the Z axis is taken by the collar supplied in your kit? Also why is there so little space made around the LoveJoys? The Orange sticker peeled out on a couple - just shows how close they are to the walls.

[bruce_miranda]

OK going to try and get my hand on a 'full' PC and see how things go.

Does anyone know of a supplier for a buffered Breakout Board similar to the ones CNC4PC do but in the UK? Hopefully that will give me a full 5V signal and I can use my laptops again.

[irving2008]

OK going to try and get my hand on a 'full' PC and see how things go.

Does anyone know of a supplier for a buffered Breakout Board similar to the ones CNC4PC do but in the UK? Hopefully that will give me a full 5V signal and I can use my laptops again.

Bruce - how are your drivers wired to the PC? The MDS series are opto-isolated. Unless there is some strange wiring issue a higher output voltage wont make any difference as they are active low drive.